How to Preserve Artwork on Paper & Photographs
Storing artwork on paper & photographs (unframed):
Remove any tape or frame mats from the pieces.
Unless it's an archival tape, most tape has acid in it that turns brown & leaves stains on the piece.
Old mats & cardboard also contain acid.
Scan both sides of a photograph or document by taking photos.
Wrap artwork in glassine paper or a ph-neutral butcher paper and make an envelope.
Use masking tape or painter's tape to close & secure the envelope.
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Wrapping Multiple Photographs:
Make sure there are division sheets in between each artwork or photograph separating them.
Then wrap it all together in an envelope. If you don't put divider sheets the pieces may stick together & need to be ripped to separate or any medium can get onto another artwork.
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Store in archival ph neutral boxes. Put these boxes in a cool, DRY place.
If storing in basements, make sure boxes are in plastic bins on shelves to protect from flooding.
Click the link above or visit www.UniversityProducts.com to find archival supplies.
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Stay away from:
cardboard (contains acid that can seep out over time & stain)
foamcore (also contains acid)
tissue paper/paper towels (absorb moisture & attracts mold)
metal (can rust and stain)
"Acid-free" boards, mats & folders (usually the top layer is free of acid, but the inner core will contain acid)
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Photo Albums:
Never glue photographs down. Use photograph corners.
If making a scrapbook, make a copy of the original photograph and use it instead of the original.
Try to use PH neutral / archival photograph albums.
How to Frame Artwork on Paper & Photographs:
*Always scan or document the piece before framing it.*
Ready Made Frames or Premade frames
The cheapest option, widely available in standard sizes. (Target, Walmart, Blick Art Stores, Framebridge, online)
*DO NOT USE ORIGINAL ARTWORK OR Original PHOTOGRAPHS in these frames.
Use a scan or reproduction instead. These frames are NOT archival. They do NOT have UV-protected glass or plexi and the mats usually contain acid that will turn brown over time and stain the artwork.
Made to Order or Custom Framing (Framing Store or Art Store)
ASK for archival materials! You get what you pay for with framing. Pay for higher-quality materials.
Only agree to 100% cotton fiber mats & ragboards (ACID-free mats contain acid pulp inside the core)
You can tell if the mat has acid inside if the inner core is a different color than the top of the mat.
Never use wooden liners (wrapped fabric) or wooden gold or silver leaf fillets (all wood contains acid)
Ask for Museum mounting- that the mounting is archival & reversible. Make sure they use Japanese Hinge tape or ph neutral hinge tape or photo corners. Don't let them use double-sided tape (contains acid).
Glazing: Glass (can break) Plexi (can scratch)
Make sure to always use UV-protected Glass or Plexi. Even in a place without direct sunlight, any light source (lamp, electric lights, etc.) can cause artwork to fade or change colors.
Best option: Optium Museum Acrylic TruVue (99% UV protection & Anti-Reflection) Most expensive.
2nd Best: Museum Glass TruVue (99% UV protection & Anti-Reflection)
3rd Best: OP3 Conservation Clear Acrylic (UV protection only)
4th Best: Conservation Clear Glass TruVue (UV protection only)
Do Not use: AR Glass or Art Glass Water White / Reflection Control Glass (Foggy), Clear Acrylic or Regular Premium Clear Glass. These DO NOT have UV protection. Just buy a readymade frame.
FADING due to NO UV protection IS NOT REVERSIBLE!!!!!
Pro Tip: Bring an old frame or a ready made frame (make sure it's in okay condition & at least an inch larger than the artwork size & deep enough). Pay for higher quality materials inside the frame & save $ on the outside frame.
Framing Options for artwork on paper:
Artwork on paper & photographs should always have a barrier between them and the glazing (glass/plexi).
Never have the artwork touching the glazing (glass/plexi).
If any amount of moisture gets into the frame, the art or photo will stick to the glazing!!!
The mat (industry standard 4ply or 8ply thickness) is a barrier separating the artwork from touching the glazing.
Always use 100% cotton fiber matboards & ragboards (mounting board).
"Acid-Free" mats still contain acid inside the core & over time will turn brown & stain the artwork or cause a "matburn". You can tell if the inner core is a different color (white which will turn brown with age) it contains acid! The inner core should be the same color as the top of the mat. Restoring artwork with a matburn can cost thousands of dollars.$$$ Prevent it!
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16ply thick 100% cotton fiber Matted Framed
Artwork by Richard H. Brown 1975
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Mats with Acid Inner Core
Matburn (brown) on edge of piece due to acid in the mat seeping through.
Floating Artwork on top of the Mat
Floating is where you see the full piece or the edges of the piece. Also known as a "shadowbox" frame.
There should always be spacers under the lip of the frame that separate the glazing (glass or plexi) from touching the artwork.Â
The artwork should be Museum Mounted (archival & reversible) on a 100% cotton ragboard. DO NOT let them use foamcore, which contains acid.Â
Ideally, the background mat board & the spacers should also be 100% cotton fiber boards.Â
NEVER have the artwork or photograph directly touching the glass.Â
Windmill by Richard H. Brown 1976 floating in the fram
Island Matting:
Combination of regular matting and floating the piece.
Again, Make sure the mat is a thick enough ply (at least 8ply) do not use 4ply! To separate the glass/plexi from touching the artwork.
There is a gap around the piece, so you still see the full piece, including the edges. Again, make sure all mats and ragboard underneath are 100% cotton fibers.
Ries Family Homestead Original Photograph. Island Matting: Museum Mounted with a 16ply thick 100% bevel.
Scans were taken beforehand.